Spectacular, enormous and over-the top are all familiar descriptions of properties in Las Vegas, but elegant rarely - if ever - was used. That all changed, however, when the Desert Inn reopened last December. This wasn't just a sprucing up or a new facade, but a transformation into an elegant boutique hotel.

The $200 million project, which took two years, touched every guest room and public room. The seven-story vaulted grand lobby, with its polished-marble floors and 30-foot, hand-painted murals, is a fitting welcome to what the hotel's owners call 'the luxury and elegance of a bygone era.' But with the opulence comes good taste. Large windows bathe the public rooms in natural light Exquisite furnishings in muted colors fill the hallways; their neutral tones are the perfect backdrop for the current of stylish class that courses through this property. A typically for Las Vegas, there is a noticeable absence of glitz, neon, children and the constant din that permeates most hotels here.

Target Clientele: The upscale resort destination traveler is the courted demographic. Sophisticated clients accustomed to retreats at La Costa or the Phoenician will ease right into the Desert Inn. Meetings and conventions of up to 800 can also be accommodated.

Accommodations: With 715 rooms and suites spread among five buildings, clients can choose from a wide range of accommodations in myriad configurations. The deluxe rooms in the Augusta Tower (there is no 'standard' room designation here) feature twin queen beds or a king, double sinks with marble countertops, irons and ironing boards, 3 two- line phones, terry robes, hair dryers and quality toiletries. Upscale clients will particularly enjoy the minisuites in the new Palm Tower, which feature large sitting areas, spacious verandas and oversize bathrooms with whirlpool tubs and stall showers.

Be sure, however, to reserve rooms faring the pool and golf course, where patrons enjoy the idyllic, soothing views. Guests in rooms directly across the hall face the Frontier Hotel's rooftop. As might be expected, the high-roller suites here would qualify as palaces in some small countries. These penthouses feature private pools and every imaginable luxury.

Public Areas: The casino, which is small by Las Vegas standards, is an elegantly furnished room accented with palm trees and a domed ceiling. Within its soft and intimate environs, even the winners tend to react with restrained glee. In both the stunning lobby and in public hallways, patrons are invited to sit in comfortable sofas and chairs to read or just to relax. The 636-seat, nonsmoking Crystal Showroom is the setting for headliner entertainment, and its relatively small size evokes a nightclub feel. The Starlight Lounge features nightly entertainment. Meetings and conventions are accommodated in both the new Country Club (site of the Grand Ballroom) and the main building.

With treatments ranging from desert-clay body wraps to Shiatsu massage, and a professional, eager-to-please staff, the spa offers a multisensory experience. The fitness room features virtual-reality bakes and a roller-blading machine to burn excess calories, while four pools, hushed fountains and serene sunlit chambers all promote a level of relaxation bordering on unconscious. Duffers and experts alike will be challenged on the Desert Inn Golf Club's championship course, which sports water hazards on half its 18 holes. High-tech golf carts feature built-in electronic units that offer graphic depictions of each hole. Beyond the golf course are four night-lit tennis courts.

Dining: Monte Carlo, which has a Four-Diamond rating from AAA, features a continental menu and highly personalized service in a hushed environment. Diners in the elegant Portofino restaurant choose from a tempting menu of northern Italian and Mediterranean selections. Lavish tableside preparations by the experienced dining room captains add a level of elegance to the already artful food presentation. Chinese- food enthusiasts with a bent for haute cuisine will enjoy dining within Ho Wan's regal, domed dining room. While it also offers Szechuan and Mandarin dishes, it is the Cantonese delicacies, such as shark's fin soup and lobster sauteed in ginger and green-onion sauce, that stand out. Terrace Pointe, open 24 hours a day, is the casual alternative, with a small, quality breakfast and lunch buffet, and full menus for all three meals.

Could Be Improved: Soundproofing between minisuites in the Palm Tower was obviously not a design priority. Conversations held at normal volume are heard clearly by neighbors.

Strongest Selling Points: The Desert Inn is an anomaly: an elegant resort set in the middle of, but not influenced by, the Las Vegas Strip hubbub. No small feat, this is accomplished through a combination of tasteful decorations, extremely personalized and professional service, top-notch food, and a deftly designed and delivered resort product that contradicts the common perception of this city as all flash with no substance. TA

http://www.thedesertinn.com